we can easily find the post in internet regarding the process of ammonia finish. however, there is not many mill in china have the facility to process this finish as far as i know there is only 3 machine in china.
so what is the benefit of ammonia finish over the mercerize
1) better softness
2) better depth of color
3) better tone of color (it depends on the favor of customer), the denim shows in green tone in ammonia while the indigo shows red tone in mercerizing.
thanks to Easy Dragon (china fabric mill) to provide a denim (same color, same construction) applied in two differenent finish, so i can compare it partically (most of the post in internet , just provide theoretical information).
pls. see the pic. for the before wash, and after wash in 5 min.The ammonia finish denim did provide darker color, and have a more softhandfeel.
handscreen print is one of common finish to apply on denim. i have taken one day trip to visit one handscreen printing mill in china to pick some new handscreen pattern to my new development.
i have taken some photo from this mill, and would like to share some printing process
i will further explain the method of printing we will apply on denim in coming post
Posted in Uncategorized
Tagged denim, finishing, foil, hand, handscreen, heat, mill, pigment, rubber, screen, transfer, visit
Nowadays, there is many of finish to replace sandblasting finish on denim. we sometime will use spray potassium permanganate to show a strong sandblasting effect (sometimes we called it monkey wash).
however, what is the bad effect if we only apply a potassium spray on denim? if the denim is a lower price denim, the snap of the denim will show on the surface (just like below picture show)
what is our solution to avoid this problem ? we can apply a handsand before the spray of potassium, the effect of the handsand area will become more nicer (see below pic).
i have started an idea to develop a light weight bull denim for spring/summer 2012.
in the past, the bull denim is more suitable for men’s ( or i may say more muscular), and i am looking for a lose construction, and light weight, so it will fit for womem ( or i may say more feminine).
i am going to apply print, overdye, and different kind of after finishing on this fabric for different label.
will up-date on coming week for the outcome.
one of my job duty is to analysis the fabric, which the buyer want to find something similar.
today, i have received a Rag & Bone denim. The outlook of the denim is in very rich blue/black color, and the handfeel of this denim is very dry, which is different from normal denim.
however, when i reviewed the side seam of this denim, i found it is actually an indigo denim with very subtle black coating on top. i can say this is a denim fabric made in USA or italy.
nowadays, different of speical finish has applied to denim fabric, sometimes it is really hard to discover the process behind the fabric.
Posted in Denim Fabric
Tagged &, black, blue, bone, coated, coating, denim, fabric, finishing, rag, sourcing
just attended kingpins show 2011 in HK, as usual, they are targetting on high-end denim customer.
nowadays , tinting is almost a regular finish on denim.
so, no one will think there will be an issue for this finish, but we have recently production issue on this.
The buyer has requested an overdyed black finish on a denim, but the waistband of this denim has sewed with satin fabric, so the satin fabric has stain with black color.
we have suggested to apply the overdyed process on fabric, and then make the garment, so the tint will not show on the trim fabric.
I have never thought of the difference between the chlorine bleach and the potassium Permanganate bleach.
While I have received a compliant from our garment factory, they can not duplicate the wash we have made in sample room.
I have reviewed the jean washed by garment factory has less contrast and have a yellow tone, and our sample has more contrast on “high low”‘ and in red tone.
At this case, I have asked washing laundry to make a trial on the potassium permanganate spray on the denim fabric. It does show a red cast on the denim.
So, it has remind me the denim bleached by potassium permanganate shows a red cast on the color.
below is the picture for the differenent
many people will ask what is the different for denim fabric weight after wash?
We have no doubt to say the after wash fabric weight will be less than before wash fabric weight in past ( or when there is no stretch denim developed) because we have taken out the sizing on the denim.
While it is a reverse for stretch denim, the fabric weight will increase after wash because the stretch denim will shrink, and the fabric will gain weight.
Thanks to my friend ‘s call today, she has reminded me the tips on washing white denim as she has a white denim showed yellowish in color after washing.
I have told her there should not be a problem for washing mill to handle the white fabric wash nowadays if they are experience mill. I would say everybody take it for granted the white denim shall have a clean white color while it also has a sign of washing to show a vintage look.
At the actual bulk production, the enzyme or stone wash did turn the white jean to yellowish white. We usually add brightening agent at the end of the wash stage to solve this problem.